Materials   Hook Daiichi 1260, size 6-10 Thread: Olive 8/0 Underbody: Pearl crystal chenille Legs: Olive swiss straw (synthetic)	The 'Simpleton Frog' I call this little bug the “Simpleton Frog” because it’s so simple to tie—in fact, it is the essence of simplicity in a fl y pattern. There is nothing original about this design. Lee Haskins, who came up with the “Gurgler” concept, gets the credit for the basic design. The only real changes from Lee’s pattern are in the type of foam used, and the smaller size of the Simpleton. Also, the legs are tied with swiss straw, which seems too stiff as it comes out of the package. However, it softens significantly in the water, and the legs move enticingly. Bass fishing is primo now, and this little bomb will pound them up—no question there. Bluegills also like it. It should be tied with a weed guard, since it seems that most foothill ponds and small lakes became weeded up early this year. I have chosen olive foam for the fly for obvious reasons. However, the same basic design can be used for a spider pattern when tied in other colors, such as black.
Instructions                 1. Cover the hook shank with thread. 2. Cut a piece of 2mm foam to the shape shown in the sidebar picture. Use this blank as a template. The  handle” part of the blank is what is tied on to the hook. 3. Tie on the handle, being sure to include a part of the wider portion leading to the body itself. About 1/3 of the hook shank should be sticking out to the rear (see photo of the fl y). 4. Make the legs using a piece of swiss straw. Note that this material is usually doubled over. Spread it out so that it is reasonably flay, and cut it in half along its axis. Take a piece about 4” long and tie in an overhand knot near each end of the material. Double the material over, placing the knots together. Trim the butt ends evenly, leaving about 1/8” ; this tag will represent the frog’s feet. You can split this tag with a snip of your scissors, to replicate “toes” on the frog. See illustration in the sidebar; the knot joints are marked with a black pen. 5. Straddle the hook with the legs, and move them back to where the chenille was tied in. Measure the legs so that they are about 1-1/2 times the length of the shank, and tie them in. Figure eight the legs so that they stick out to the sides. See sidebar illustration. 6. Tie on the pearl crystal chenille at the same point that the body and legs were tied on. Move the thread forward to a point about 1/8”behind the eye. Wrap the chenille forward and tie it off where the thread ends. 7. Pull the foam forward over the top of the hook, and tie it down at the same point. 8. Trim the foam stub to about 1⁄4” (smaller for smaller hooks). 9. Place a few winds of thread infront of the stub so that it will stick upward, and then whip finish. 10. If desired, make black or brown spots on the top of the foam, using a Sharpie or other indelible marker. You can also use a red Sharpie to color the underside of the foam stub that forms the head. See ya on the creek…or, in this case, the bass pond!

Copyright 1998 by Granite Bay Flycasters unless otherwise noted.