Fly Patterns - Burk's Aggravator Prince Nymph

                 Burk's Aggravator Prince Nymph



TMC 2312, Daiichi 1260, or similar hook, #6-14


Black Danville 6/0


Gold bead, sized to match hook


Lead free wire wraps


Pearl Crystal Flash


Brown/Olive marabou


Gold Wire


Peacock Herl


Peacock Herl


Peacock Herl

Wing Case

White goose biots


Olive Silli-Legs



Andy Burk needs no introduction to the world of fly tying; he’s practically a legend. But he’s also a darned nice guy. Andy has produced many U-Tube videos on fly tying—and, of course, these are all free. He has also made or been featured in commercially marketed DVDs on fly tying. Andy has, over the years, developed many original patterns, some of which have (at least in my case) accounted for many “nice” fish. Andy formerly wrote the “At the Vise” column in the California Fly Fisher Magazine; I was honored to take over that column once Andy moved along to other ventures.

I’ve used Andy’s Aggravator Prince Nymph for bass and trout in still water angling. The fly, with its sexy motion, attracts fish and induces strikes and takes. Tie up a few of these and toss them to still water trout and bass. 

Tying Instructions

1.     Smash the hook barb, apply the bead to the hook, and wrap weighting wire in the thorax area.

2.     Cover the shank with thread, leaving it at the rear of the hook, just above the back of the barb. Tie in two pieces of pearl Crystal Flash and wrap them down the bend to the half way point, and then back to the tie-in point. Tie it off and trim the excess.


3.     Cut or strip a small bunch of olive-brown marabou from the quill, and tie it in at the front end of the Crystal Flash tag, to form the tail. The tail should be approximately the length of the hook shank.

4.     Tie in a piece of gold wire at the same spot; this will be the ribbing material.


5.     At the same spot, tie in 3 or 4 long strands of peacock herl and  form a loop of the thread; leave the loop with the herl, but cut one leg of the loop at the shank. Move the thread forward to the hook eye. Using your hackle pliers, grab all of the peacock herl strands and the single strand of thread. Twist the thread and herl counterclockwise until you form a herl “chenille.”


6.     Wind the peacock “chenille” forward  to form the abdomen; stop winding when you have reached the 2/3 point on the shank, and tie off the herl. Don’t trim it yet, as we will use the rest of it to finish the thorax.


7.     At that same front 2/3 point, tie in the first set of legs by laying a section of leg material perpendicular across the hook shank and tying it down. Figure-8 wrap the leg material; don’t trim it yet.


8.     Pick up the herl chenille once again and take a few wraps in front of the first set of legs, sweeping them rearward. Tie off the herl again and move it out of the way. Apply a second set of legs in the same manner as the first set.


9.     Rib the abdomen and thorax areas with the fine gold wire and tie off the wire in front of the thorax.

10.  Cut two long white biots from the stem.  Tie them in at the front of the thorax and place a drop of glue at the tie-in point.

11.  Using the remainder of the herl chenille, wrap a collar of peacock herl behind the bead and tie it off. Whip finish behind the bead.

Now go throw one of these beasts to some still water bass or trout with an intermediate sink line, and….                              

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